Antigua
Dining and Drinking
In Antigua, party time is all the time, so there are many places to go for dining and drinking. There are a wide variety of spots at the dozens of hotels on the island. And with 365 beaches, there are many beach bars. If you're planning a beach day, go to Pigeon Beach in English Harbour. There, you'll have an opportunity to treat yourself to a tropical and casual lunch and drink at Bumpkins, a colorful beachy looking open-air spot. The owner, Carol, opens this eatery according to her whim, but a good bet is to arrive between 1p-5p daily.Depending on your tastes, food types are plentiful, though dishes with Caribbean/West Indian flair are the most common. Fresh seafood, particularly deep-sea fish, can be found on most every menu.
You won't have trouble finding a place to dine in downtown St. Johns, the island's lively capital. Some are in the historic Redcliffe Quay area, housed in old warehouses that have been restored as shops and restaurants. The brick and stone Redcliffe Tavern, with old water pumping equipment used as decor, offers wonderful continental fare and a great place to hang out and have a drink. Next-door is the Big Banana. They serve pizza and food in the little shopping area where you can dine in or out. For some reason, Big Banana holds the prize for the best CD collection on the island.
For people watching, you can't beat Hemingway's, a downtown eatery in a wonderful old West Indian building covered with gingerbread. You can sit on the balcony for a drink or meal and watch the world go by. Do try the curry dishes.
There are many restaurants in town to keep a visitor busy for many nights. One of these, called Home, is located in a West Indian house and is popular for its fish, lobster and duck, however, it cab be a bit costly. Harbour Lights, an elegant restaurant on the water, offers special meals for vegetarians and diabetics. Two others in the historic area include the Commissioner Grill, offering West Indian dishes and seafood, and the Archway Cafe, open for lunch only serving pasta and other casual fare. O'Grady's Pub (sounds like it should be in Philadelphia), a favorite hangout for locals, serves pub grub and green beer in March.
Arguably one of the best restaurants on the island is Julian's, also downtown. This restaurant is elegant with food to match and a good wine list, with many sold by the glass. Dining is available in an outdoor garden or in air-conditioned comfort.
Though most of the island's restaurants are connected with hotels, a few of them are freestanding. Miller's by the Sea is one of them. It's very popular with local people because of its large and affordable West Indian buffet and nightly entertainment. For some genuine West Indian cuisine,this is not to be missed. The Coconut Grove restaurant is outstanding. Look for it on the beach at Dickenson Bay. You can't get much more romantic than this as the pristine calm waters practically lap at your toes and the stars glitter above.
Another "essential" during a visit to Antigua is the Sunset-Into-The-Night Party at Shirley Heights (an 18th century fort not far from Nelson's Dockyard area). With its stunning views and magnificent old buildings, this spot has all the elements. There's a pub-style restaurant open daily, and on Sunday and Thursday nights there's a huge barbecue that is attended by literally hundreds of local people, tourists and the yacht-set. For great food and a big party with live music into the night, this is the place.
Chez Pascal is one of the French restaurants on the island with an ocean view and live music.
Most hotels have restaurants, but an true standout is the Bay House Restaurant at the Tradewinds Hotel in Dickenson Bay. Coco's, also on the west "sunset" coast, has great food and views for diners. For one of the finest wine selections anywhere (certainly in the Caribbean) try Curtain Bluffs, a lovely resort built on a bluff and run by wine connoisseur Howard Hulford. Reservations and jackets are required for dinner in this elegant restaurant.
In English Harbour, there's a good Italian restaurant, Abracadabra, with live music and even livelier food. The Admiral's Inn open-air restaurant serves tantalizing dishes, especially fresh seafood. Or, just stop in for a drink at the nautical bar inside the hotel. In the same area is Catherine's Cafe with plenty of personality, good food and great espresso. More French fare can be found at LeBistro at Hodge's Bay. It is consistently ranked one of the finest restaurants in all of the Caribbean.
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