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Halifax

Recommended Tours

It all starts on the water

Visitors to a city steeped in a colorful seafaring past won't be surprised to learn that the most popular excursions involve the ocean, the navy, and other things maritime.

Conveniently, most of the city's attractions mingle on the waterfront, within easy walking distance of each other. After arriving in town, head down to the waterfront, where you'll find the headquarters for most tour operations, on sea or land. In the Historic Properties is The Red Store Visitor Information Centre with pamphlets, maps and details about every inch of the province.

Gardeners should sign up for a descriptive walking tour of The Halifax Public Gardens, a large gated park off Spring Garden Road. It's a haven of quiet beauty where long-necked swans navigate the ponds while ducks politely await the shower of breadcrumbs tossed to them by generous visitors. The gardens are beautifully maintained and exquisitely planned, with walkways shaded by trees. In the center of the gardens is an ornate wooden bandstand facing rows of chairs; a weary nature-lover can sit here and enjoy an iced tea while listening to Dixieland jazz.

Boat tours are varied and plentiful. You can sign up for a moonlight cruise aboard the Bluenose II, or take a leisurely afternoon trip up and down the harbor with a narrated history of waterfront landmarks. There are whale-watching tours that guarantee sightings—if not of whales, then of blue herons, sea ducks, dolphins and shiny-headed seals. Just outside the city there are any number of fishing villages that offer seafood restaurants, craft shops, and quiet time by the ocean.

Theme cruises aboard two-deck paddlewheelers provide a buffet dinner accompanied by live jazz, blues, or Boomers' tunes from the 1950s and '60s. These vessels are a lovely sight as they haul anchor and head off into the blue-black waters of the harbor at night, lights blazing and music blaring. In the daytime, they head out into the sunlit harbour with bar and concession services readily available.

Sightseeing tours both in the city and outside it are plentiful. You can take a bus/walking tour of the three Halifax cemeteries that house the remains of Titanic casualties, complete with a spoken historical survey of the tragedy. And while on the subject of cemeteries, Halifax is home to the only known cemetery that contains its own traffic light. The downtown Camp Hill Cemetery, bordered by Robie Street, has a working traffic light in its northwestern corner.

Tours are divided into seven routes, each colour-coded in all information/tourism material. The most popular tour goes to Peggy's Cove, a tiny picturesque community near Halifax that meanders along the South Shore, part of the Lighthouse Route. A tranquil village built on a bold rockscape, Peggy's Cove offers a dramatic view of the Atlantic Ocean. It is also home to one of the province's most famous lighthouses. With daily express runs by motorcoach and boat, it's an easy destination. Once at Peggy's Cove, you can arrange for a half-day excursion to the Pennant Granite Barrens, a tour that describes the evolution of the rocky, moon-like landscape formed by the sea's relentless rhythm.

Another popular tour is the scenic Cabot Trail, part of the Cape Breton Island Route, home to magnificent vistas of massive cliffs and rugged coastline. You can travel to Cape Breton on an escorted bus tour and return by rail on a three-day excursion that includes a comfortable stay at the area's best hotels with stop-offs at sites of interest. You'll see clear, "bottomless" lakes shouldered by huge cliffs. Eagles, osprey and terns surf the breeze as seagulls cry at the setting sun.

"Capers" are a hardy, friendly folk, known for their willingness to work hard and party harder. The Cabot Trail is dotted with bed-and-breakfast establishments and rustic cottages where a weary traveller can stop and enjoy the awe-inspiring vistas or find a kitchen party enlivened by amateur fiddlers and singers.

Another tour option is provided by Classic Journeys and takes you throughout Nova Scotia's Coasts & Villages. This exclusive and fancy six-day walking tour offers all the comfort you'd dream of while taking in the beauty of the area.

The Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site is one of the largest in North America. Settled by the French in 1713, the town of Louisbourg was for many years France's crown jewel in the New World. The town is surrounded by large stone gates, walls and formal gardens. Inside, the citizens, in full period-costume, go about their day-to-day lives as they would have two centuries ago. A blacksmith, ironmonger, full working stable and other businesses operate using only the implements and resources of the time. No fast food here; three period restaurants offer 18th century cuisine, from hearty pea soup to freshly-baked brown bread. Guided walking tours through the town can be arranged onsite, as can excursions outside the Fortress.

The town of Annapolis Royal is a three-hour drive along the Evangeline Trail from Halifax and is a must-see for history buffs. However, most everyone will appreciate its large, gracious houses, unique shops, galleries, studios and fine inns. The town is home to an astonishing 150 designated heritage buildings, many of which are now lovingly restored bed-and-breakfast establishments, restaurants and inns. Annapolis Royal is also the site of the oldest wooden house in Canada, the deGannes-Cosby home, constructed in 1708.

Gardeners of all stripes will appreciate Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens, a 10-acre spread with winding pathways that take visitors through spectacular displays, tranquil settings, theme gardens and unique collection gardens.



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