Recommended Tours

The wonderful thing about Jerusalem is the many worlds it encapsulates and the hustle and bustle of human life going on in different places. This walking tour is a people-watcher’s paradise (it is designed to take a few hours, including falafel and coffee stops). I often tell you to 'get lost a little' because through wandering down alleys of new neighborhoods, you will experience the flavors and atmosphere of Jerusalem for yourself.

You will be going through the ultra-Orthodox neighborhood of Mea Shearim, the heaving Mahane Yehuda market, the charming Nahlaot neighborhood, and Ben Yehuda Street–Jerusalem’s tourist center.

Tour One: Mea Shearim

Start at the intersection of Jaffa and Strauss Streets and head up Strauss Street until you hit Mea Shearim–this is the main road of the Mea Shearim district. This ultra-Orthodox neighborhood, which was established in 1875, is unique in that its inhabitants have preserved the life that their ancestors led in the shtetls of Eastern Europe.

A few behavior codes worth bearing in mind: dress modestly. This means a long skirt for women, a high neckline, and sleeves that cover the elbows. Do not drive through, take photos, or listen to Discmen or iPods on religious holidays or Shabbat, as these acts are seen as a violation. Women should not sing in public. Contact with religious people of the opposite sex (such as sitting next to them on the bus or taking something directly from their hands) should be avoided.

To get the flavor of the area, wander off the small roads of Mea Shearim and get lost a little. You will see little boys in school yards with payot (sidecurls), men with fur hats on their way to yeshivas (religious schools) or the synagogue, and women managing families of ten-plus children and huge amounts of shopping. Mea Shearim is at its liveliest the day before a festival or on Thursday night in preparation for Shabbat. It is also the best place to buy cheap Judaica.

Tour Two: Mahane Yehuda Market

When you are through with your wandering, return to Jaffa Street, cross over and head right. Carry on walking until you reach the entrance to the Mahane Yehuda market. There are several avenues to walk up and down (some inside, some outdoors). The produce is both fresh and cheap, making it a good place to pick up fruit, vegetables, pita bread, and pastries. It is a treat for the senses, with vendors talking loudly in Hebrew and Arabic and the crowds jostling with each other.

Exit on Agripas Street at the other end of the market. Here you can pick up the cheapest falafel in West Jerusalem.

Tour Three: Nahlaot

Cross over the street, head for any alley, and you will find yourself in Nahlaot, a jumbled neighborhood which is more or less cut off to cars. Its homes, some of them makeshift-looking and others charming, are crowded into small alleyways. Its residents are a mixture of Sephardim (Jews from countries such as Yemen, Morocco, Iraq, and India), bohemians, students, and artists. The area is both poor and gentrified, and it has an ultra-Orthodox enclave. It’s a charming place to wander through. Get lost a little, with the eventual aim of coming out on Bezalel Street.

Tour Four: Ben Yehuda Street

Go left on Bezalel Street, veering right when the road forks after the Gerard Behar Centre. There will be a small road to cross, but carry on bearing straight. Cross King George Street, and you are on Ben Yehuda Street. Keep walking, and soon you will be in a pedestrianized area lined with outdoor cafes and souvenir shops–this is the tourist heart of Jerusalem. At the end of the road is Zion Square, take the alley to the right here, and you will be on Yoel Salomon, a charming place to stop for a coffee or to peruse the ceramic, jewelery, and gift stores.

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